Cape Kamenjak

This is where I take guests who want beaches without sunbeds and umbrellas. Cape Kamenjak (Rt Kamenjak) is a protected area — a “significant landscape,” in the official Croatian phrase — at the very southern tip of Istria, just past the village of Premantura. Dozens of coves at the end of dirt tracks, water so clear it doesn’t look real, and almost nothing built on it.

It’s about 25 minutes by car from the house, south through Medulin and Pomer to Premantura. One of my favourite places in all of Istria.

Getting In

There’s a per-car entrance fee in summer — and this trips people up, so let me be clear. It’s cheaper in the shoulder months, and there are multi-day and weekly tickets if you plan to come back, plus a discount for buying online. Cyclists and pedestrians get in free, all year.

Buy your ticket online at shop.kamenjak.hr and you skip the summer queue.
Two entrances at the edge of Premantura: Rupine (needs a pre-paid ticket) and Parendine (you can pay on the day).
Rates change from year to year, so check the current one at kamenjak.hr before you go.

Once you’re through the ramp, you’re free to explore.

The Beaches & Coves

No long sandy strands here — expect pebble coves and flat rocky ledges with turquoise water. A few of my favourites:

Njive — the most family-friendly, with a beach bar and sunbeds. Easy to reach, clear shallow water.
Pinižule — pebbles and pine shade (rare here!), a bar, and the start of the dinosaur trail. Good for kids.
Mala Kolombarica — the famous cliff-jumping cove, home of the Safari Bar (below).
Plovanija and Radovica — wilder and quieter; Radovica takes a bit of a scramble on foot, which keeps the crowds away.

Cliff Jumping & the Safari Bar

On the southern tip, Mala Kolombarica has ledges of every height — from a knee-high hop to jumps only the locals attempt — where people throw themselves into deep, clear water. Even if you don’t jump, it’s fun to watch — but respect the sea: on windy days the currents get strong and it’s genuinely dangerous.

Right above it is the Safari Bar — a ramshackle jungle of bamboo, driftwood, old boats and swings hanging out over the water. Cold drinks, simple food, and a view you won’t forget. Bring cash — card payment can’t be relied on out here. It shouldn’t work, but it’s perfect.

The Dinosaur Footprints

Real fossilised dinosaur footprints, about 98 million years old, pressed into the rock at Cape Grakalovac. A marked trail leads out to them past Pinižule beach. Kids love it.

Snorkelling & the Sea

The clear water over rock makes Kamenjak one of the best places around for snorkelling — take a mask and you’ll find shoals of fish, sea anemones and the occasional octopus in the shallows. Mind the sea urchins on the rocks, and never swim far out when the wind is up.

Make a Day of It in Premantura

The village of Premantura, right at the gateway to the park, is worth an hour of its own — a genuine little fishing place with konobas for grilled fish, a small harbour, and windsurf and SUP rentals down in the bay towards Medulin (this whole corner is a well-known wind spot). Stock up, eat, and rent your bikes here before heading in.

Know Before You Go

This is a protected area with very few facilities — a couple of beach bars and nothing else. Come prepared:

Bring water, snacks, and your own shade — and stock up in Premantura first (the last shops, petrol and ATM before the park).
Water shoes are essential. The coast is rocky and sea urchins are common.
Roads inside are gravel — drive slowly, and park only in the designated pull-offs.
Go early in summer; the best spots and parking fill up by late morning.
Rent bikes in Premantura — the park is big, cycling is free to enter, and it’s the best way to explore.
Leave nothing behind. No camping, no fires, pack out all your rubbish. The park closes in the evening — check the current times at kamenjak.hr.