Motovun

Motovun (Montona in Italian) is the postcard shot of inland Istria — a medieval town perched on a steep hill, surrounded by vineyards and the forest where they hunt for truffles. It’s about 75 km from the house — allow an hour and a quarter each way — and worth every minute of it.

What Makes It Special

The views. From the town walls you can see across the Mirna valley to other hilltop villages. On clear days it feels like you can see half of Istria. The town itself is tiny — you can walk it in 20 minutes — but it’s beautifully preserved.

My Tips

Come for lunch. The restaurants here specialise in Istrian food with truffles. Pasta with truffles, steak with truffles, even truffle ice cream. It’s not cheap, but it’s a proper treat.

Park at the bottom. There’s parking at the top but it’s limited, and the drive up is nerve-wracking. Park below and walk up — it’s steep, but short.

Visit a wine cellar. Several houses in town have small wine cellars offering tastings. Malvazija is the local white — crisp and perfect with seafood.

Walk the town walls. The circuit around the ramparts gives you the best views — the Mirna valley, vineyards, and hilltop villages. Motovun gave its name to the long-running Motovun Film Festival (now Cinehill), though in recent years the festival has moved elsewhere — if you’re keen, check where the current edition is held.

Combine It With

Motovun pairs well with Grožnjan (the artists’ town) and a drive through the Istrian hill towns. I can draw you a route that hits the best spots without too much driving.