Cape Marlera Lighthouse

Some evenings I tell guests to point the car — or better, the bikes — south-east out of the village and just follow the coast until the road runs out. What you reach is Cape Marlera (Rt Marlera), a low, windswept headland with a slender old lighthouse standing just off the shore, and one of the most peaceful corners of our whole coast.

The Lighthouse

The Marlera lighthouse dates to the 19th century, from the Austro-Hungarian era when this was all one empire and the coast was dotted with navigation lights. It sits a little way out on the rocks, reached by a dirt track through low Mediterranean scrub. The light runs itself these days, and the old keeper’s quarters are rented out to guests — so you can actually sleep out here, with nothing but the sea for company. (Check current availability if the idea tempts you; it does get booked.)

The Beach

Just below is Marlera beach — a quiet pebble cove that regulars will tell you is the prettiest named beach in the village, precisely because so few people bother to find it. When the bura wind blows it’s a favourite with kitesurfers and windsurfers; when it’s calm, it’s yours for a swim and a doze on the warm stones.

For Divers & Snorkellers

The waters off Marlera are among the best dive sites on this stretch of coast. Down on the seabed grows a meadow of Posidonia — the rare Mediterranean seagrass that keeps the water so astonishingly clear and shelters all the little life you’ll see when you snorkel. Local diving centres in Kuje bay can bring you out here.

Best At Sunset

Come in the last hour of daylight. The headland faces the open Kvarner, the sea goes gold and then pink, the islands of Cres and Lošinj turn to silhouettes, and the lighthouse blinks on. Bring a bottle of chilled Malvazija and you’ll understand why I keep sending people here.

Good To Know

• It’s a wild spot — no bars, no facilities. Bring water, and shoes for the rocks.
• The last stretch is an unpaved track; drive slowly, or cycle it, which is lovelier anyway.
• Perfect combined with a lazy day along the beaches of Ližnjan.

See Also

• Beaches of Ližnjan — the full guide to our coves
• Ližnjan Village — the village and its history
• Cape Kamenjak — more wild coast, 25 minutes south